Adjustable dress-chart



(No Model.) 3 Sheets- -Sheet 1.

A. H. ORMSBY. ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

No. 599,247 Patented Feb. 15, 1898.

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3 Sheets-Sheet. 2.

(No Model.)

A. H. ORMSBY.

ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

Patented Feb. 1 5, 1898.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets'Sheet 3.

A. H. ORMSBY. ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

N0. 599,247. Patented Feb. 15, 1898.

ALBERTHA H. ORMSBY, OF DETROIT, MICHIGAN.

ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 599,247, dated February 15, 1898. Application filed November 3, 1897. Serial No. 657,250. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ALBERTHA I-I. ORMSBY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Detroit, in the county of Wayne and State of Michigamhave invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Dressmaking-Oharts; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention is an improvement in adjustable dressmaking-charts; and it consists in the novel features of construction and combination of parts hereinafter fully described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which illustrate one form in which I have contemplated embodying my invention, and said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims.

Referring to the said drawings, Figure 1 represents a view of the front pattern for the waist of a dress. Fig. 2 represents the back pattern. Fig. 3 represents the under-arm pattern. Fig. 4 represents the side-form pat tern. Fig. 5 represents the sleeve-pattern. Fig. 6 represents the pattern for making the skirts, collars, darts, and other work. Fig. '7 is a diagrammatic view showing the manner in which the skirt-pattern is used in laying off a skirt.

I prefer to construct all the parts of my device of thin sheet material, such as a strong flexible cardboard; but it may be madeof any other suitable material.

In the drawings, Fig. 1, A represents the main plate of the front-body pattern, which is made of a single piece provided with a curved front edge a, bearing a scale of inches a to indicate the length of front. At the upper end of the front edge a is the curved edge a which forms part of the neck-pattern. From the upper end of edge a a straight edge a extends laterally, from which the side edge a extends downward to the bottom edge a. Two recesses or openings at a are formed in the plate A, as shown, the edges of which form the patterns for the two darts.

B and O are two plates which are adj ustablyconnected together by means of studs, which are each secured to one part and engage a slot in the other. The plate 13 is secured to plate A by means of studs and slots, so as to slide up and down on plate A. Plate B is provided with a front edge b,which forms a continuation of the neck edge a of plate A, and is provided with a scale Z), on which the neck measurement is set by moving the required number of the scale to the edge a of the plate A. The plate 0 is provided with a scale 0, which is set to indicate the length of shoulders by bringing the desired number to the edge of plate 13.

D and E represent two plates, the outer edges of which form the arm-scye, said parts being slidably connected by means of studs and slots, so as to adjust themselves up and down when moved to required positions. Plate E has a curved outer edge e, which forms part of the arm-scye, and the plate D has an outer edge d, which forms the upper continuation of edge e. The plate D is pivoted to the outer end of plate C by means of a suitable stud d.

F is the slide for-indicating the chest measure, which is connected to plate A by means of slots and studs and slides laterally in a slightly-upward inclined direction and has its outer end lying over plate E. A scale f is provided on the plate A, from which to adjust the slide F, the latter being preferably provided with an arrow, as shown, which is set opposite the desired number of the scale. This chest-measure slide determines the position of the plate E, and when the slide is set the said plate E is swung on the stud d as a pivot until the edge e is in line with the outer end of the slide, as shown in the figure.

G represents the bust-measure slide, which is secured to plate A, similarly to slide F, and has its inner end work in connection with a scale g, marked on plate A, to indicate the bust measure. The outer end of the bustmeasure slide G carries a stud g, which engages a slot in arm-scye plate E and also forms a pivot for the upper end of the vertical swing plate H and controls the position-of the upper end of this plate.

Plate H is secured to plate A near its bottom by a stud h, which engages slots in both plates disposed at an angle to each other, as shown. The plate H is provided with an of the front piece of the waist, and a scale h 7 swings free.

to indicate the distance from the arm-scye to the waist is marked on said edge. The inner edge 71 of said plate H slides over a scale 7&4 on the plate A, on which the waist measure is set.

In using this pattern the device is set on the scales, as above indicated, to the required measurements, and the operator than traces around the external contour with a suitable marker.

H represents an auxiliary plate which I term the bias-dart plate and which is only used when the pattern is set to a very large waist measure and a larger dart than usual is required. This plate H is also pivoted at its upper end on the stud g, while its lower end Its outer edge 71 is set with a scale h, corresponding to the scale it of the plate H. In using this bias-dart plate H the plate H is first set to the large waist measure, which will carry it beyond a hole 72 (see dotted line, Fig. 1,) preferably provided with an eyelet. The operator will make a dot with the marker through said hole and will-then swing the plate 1-1 out until its inner edge at the line W is in line with the outer edge of the plate H. The outer line'of the pattern is then drawn down along the edge if. The bias dart is marked by first drawing a line along the left edge of the dart-opening a,

then placing the marker at the top of openin g a, swinging the plate A to the right until the right-hand edge of the opening (1. comes in line with the dot made through the hole If, and drawing along the said right-hand edge in this position to complete the bias dart.

Referring to Fig. 2, which illustrates the back pattern, I I represent the adjustable main plates, connected by slots and studs, so as to be'adjustable up and down one on the other, the plate I having a scale 1', on which the back measure is set by moving the lower end of plate I in line with the required number. The upper edge 2' of plate I is curved to conform to the neck and is provided with a scale '5 for the neck measure. From the outer end of edge 2' a downwardly-sloping edge i extends, on which is marked the shoulder-scale i and from the outer end of edge 1' an edge 2' extends down to and in line with the narrow plate I. l is the shoulder-slide, secured to plate I by studs and slots and having its upper edge in line with the edge 1' and its inner edge sliding over the scale 1 in respect to which it is adjusted.

I l are two plates connected by a sliding joint by means of studs and slots, said slots being parallel to the outer curved edges 2' i of the said plates. The upper end of the plate I is connected to the outer end of the shoulder-slide 1 by a link-plate l pivoted to the plate 1 and slide 1 and the lower end of plate I is pivoted to the plate I by a suitable stud adjacent to the waist-line. The plate I has marked on it a laterally-disposed scale 2' which indicates the bust measure by bringing the required number in line with the edge 41 of plate I. 7

Plate Iis provided with an indication for I the waist-line and with a transverse slot 2' on the waist-line, the plate being also provided with a waist-measure scale 2' adjacent to said slot. To use this back piece, the plates I and I are set to indicate the length of back on scale t" and the shoulder-slide is moved to indicate the length of shoulder. The device is then placed on the goods 'or a piece of pat tern material, a line is made with the marker down the left-hand edges of plates I and I, and a dot is made through the slot t'? in line with the division indicating the required waist measure. The device is then moved to the left to bring the upper end of the line just drawn in line with the division'on scale 2' indicating the required neck measure, and the marker is made to follow the edge 1 shoulder-slide, and link-plate 1 Then the lower part of the device is swung to the left to bring the right-hand edge of plate I in line with the dot made through the slot 11 when the pattern can be completed'by following down the edges 2' i and the edge of plate I with the marker.

The under-arm pattern shown in Fig. 3 is composed of two plates K K. The plate K has a curved longitudinal edge is, marked with a scale it", indicating the under-arm measure, and a curved upper edge 10 having a scale k indicating the arm-scye'measure. The upper part of the plate K is provided with a stud which engages a slot in the plate K to enable them to be adjusted laterally with respect to each other, and the two plates are united at their lower ends by a stud which engages slots in said plates disposed perpendicularly to each other, as shown. The righthand edge k of the plate K is also slightly curved and provided with a scale k indicating the under-arm measure, and the upper edge It of said plate is adapted to form a continuation of the edge k of plate K. The plates are adjusted at the top by moving the inner edge of plate K to the division on scale k indicating the required arm-scye measure and at the bottom by adjusting the under edge of said plate K to the required division of a scale 70 on plate K to indicate the required waist measure.

Fig. 4: shows the side-form pattern, which is composed of two plates L L, which are connected in a similar manner to plates K and K. Plate L is provided along its vertical edge I with a scale Z to indicate the underarm measure, scale Z to indicate the'waist measure, and scale Z along edge Z to indicate the arm-scye measure. Plate L is also provided with a scale Z along edge Z to indicate the under-arm measure.

M represents the sleeve-pattern, which consists of a single integral plate so constructed that any one of the various kinds of sleeves can be made by its use. The plate M is provided on one side with an inwardly-curved edge 0%, having a scale m 'm adjacent to each end of the same corresponding to various lengths of sleeves. The lower edge m of the plate is straight and is provided with a scale m indicating the various widths of sleeves at wrist. Opposite the inwardly-curved edge on is the outwardly-curved edge m, the upper end of which is given a slight inward and then an outward curve, as at 011 911 The edge m is provided with a scale m at its upper part, indicating length from elbow to shoulder, and the plate M is provided With an elbow-indicating line m in which is located a slot m", provided with a scale m to indicate width at the elbow.

m m indicate a series of slots cut in the plate nearly, but not quite, parallel to the edge 972 which are used for making the lines for certain kinds of sleeves, and m m are similar slots which indicate the top line of such sleeves. 717, is a similar slot which indicates the elbow-line of the sleeve of which the slots on m form the pattern. Thesoales m, 021 and m are preferably duplicated on the other side of plate m, (not shown,) andan elbow-measure scale m is placed on the rear side of said plate adjacent to the slot m as indicated in dotted lines.

The skirt-rule shown in Fig. 6 consists of the plate N, provided with the straight edge 71, marked with a measuring-scale n. At one end of the edge u the plate is provided with a perpendicular edge n marked with a scale a to indicate the fullness over the hip to be allowed in making skirts. Parallel to the edge 07. is a short edge a with a measuringscale and from the end of said edge a to the other end of the plate is an inwardlycurved edge a marked with a scale of. Parallel to this curved edge 02 is a row of slots n a at the ends of which are slots n at, extending toward the said curved edge u. A scale n similar to scale of, is arranged adjacent to the slots n At the end opposite the scale a the plate is provided with a curved edge a, which extends to the curved edge u, where it forms a point N. Between the parallel edges 02 and n the plate is cut away to form a dart-pattern opening having a straight bottom edge a and curved sides n a, meeting at a point at one end. This portion of the plate is provided with an adjustable slide 0, which is secured thereto by studs 0 o, passing through longitudinal slotsin the plate N, said slide being open at one end and having reentrant converging edges 0 0, which conform to the shape of a dart. By placing the plate N with the edge n on the waist-line of a waist-front pattern and moving the slide 0 up or down to the desired position a single dart can be marked out in lieu of the two darts provided for in the front pattern shown in Fig. 1 and previously described.

The use of the skirt-rule in drafting in one style of skirt is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. '7. A base-line P P is drawn with the edge n of the rule and upon it a distance is marked off from one end equal to one-half of the fullness desired in the back of the skirt, as at Q. A line is then drawn from Q perpendicular to P P, and the device is moved along until the point Q is opposite the division in scale 92 indicating the desired fullness at the hip, when a line is drawn from the line P P at R along the edge 12 parallel to the line from Q. On this last line a distance is measured equal to half the desired waist measure and marked as at S. A line parallel to P P is then drawn from S through the line from Q, intersecting at T and crossing at V a line P P drawn perpendicular to the line P P. The point N of the rule is then placed on T and the rule is swung around until some point in the curved edge n coincides with a point in the line B S, as at W, when the curve T W is drawn. The length desired for the skirt is now measured on lines P P and P P from R and V, and a line is constructed from P to P following the line B T V, which will be the bottom line of the skirt. This pattern, it will be understood, constitutes only half of the skirt, the other half being identical with it. The dotted lines in the diagram indicate the positions of the rule in drafting a skirt.

The plate N can also be used for making collars by using the curved edge 01 slots u and m and scales at" and a as will be readily understood. The peculiar conformation of this plate N makes it useful also in drafting childrens clothes and numerous other garments and parts of garments.

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A front pattern for waists comprising among its members the main plate having at its upper end a curved edge for the neck, the shoulder-plates sliding on each other and adjustable up and down with respect to the main plate, the arm-scye plates one of which is pivoted at its upper end to the outer shoulderplate, and is adapted to move up and down IIO with the shoulder-plate, and a chest-measure slide secured to the main plate so as to have no movement up and down and movable laterally thereon to determine the position of the arn -scye plates, whereby the position of the chest-measure slide in respect to the main plate is not affected by the adjustment of the arm-scye plate, substantially as described.

2. A front pattern for waists comprising.

among its'members, the main plate having at its upper end a curved edge for the neck and a horizontal slot adjacent to the ohest-measure slide, the shoulder-plates sliding on each other and adjustable up and down with respect to the main plate, the arm-scye plates, one of which is pivoted at its upper end to the outer shoulder-plate, and a chest-measure slide provided with a horizontal slot, securing devices extending through said slot and the slot in the main plate, said chest-measure slide being totally disconnected from said arm-scye plates, and being capable of lateral movement on the main plate to determine the position of said arm-scye .plates, whereby the position of said chest-measure scale with respect to the main plate is not affected by the adjustment of the arm-scye plates, substantially as described.

3. A front pattern for waists comprising among its members, the main plate having at the chest-measure slide-secured to the main plate and movable laterally thereon to determine the position of the arm-scye plates, the laterally-movable bust-measure slide secured to the main plate and movably secured at its outer end to one of thearm-scye plates and the under-arm plate H pivoted at its upper end to the bust-measure slide and a waistmeasure scale on the main plate for determining the position of the under-arm plate, substantially as described.

4. A front pattern for a waist comprising among its members, the main plate provided with the front-measure scale on one side, dart openings, bust measure scale, chestmeasure scale and a curved upper neck edge, the laterally-adjustable shoulder-plates adj ustably secured to said main plate to move up and down thereon, and having an edge forming a continuation of the neck edge of the main plate, a neck-measure scale adjacent thereto, and a shoulder-measure scale, the arm-scye plates pivoted to the outer shoulder-plate, and having provision for up and down adjustment, the chest-measure slide secured to said main plate adjacent to the chestmeasure scale and movable laterally to determine the position of the arm-scye plates, the bust-measure slide secured to the main plate adjacent to the bust-measure scale having a sliding connection with the arm-scye plate and movable laterally, the under-arm plate H piv oted at its upper end to the bust-measure slide, and having a sliding engagement with the lower part of the main plate, substantially as described.

5. A front pattern for a waist comprising among its members, the main plate provided with a dart-opening, the bust-measure slide movable laterally on said main plate, the under-arm plate H pivoted at its upper end to the bust-measure slide, said main'plate having a waist-1n easurescale for determining the position of said plate H, and a bias-dart aperture adjacent thereto through which a mark can be made, and the auxiliary bias -dart plate hinged to the bust-measure slide at its upper end, substantially as described.

6. The back pattern for a waist comprising among its members, the longitudinally-adjustable main plates, the upper main plate provided with a curved top edge, and neckmeasure scale, adjacent thereto, and the lower main plate being provided with a transversely extending waist line slot, through which a mark can be made, and a waist-measure scale adjacent thereto, substantially as described.

7. The back pattern for a waist comprising among its members, the adjustable main plates, the upper main plate being provided with a curved top edge, and a neck-measure scale adjacent thereto, the lower main plate having a transverselyextending waist-line slot through which a mark can be made and waist-measure scale adjacent thereto, the

shoulder-slide adjustably secured to the upl per main plate, the bust-measure plate connected to the shoulder-slide by a link and a connecting-plate adjustably secured to said bust-measure plate at one end and pivotally secured to the lower main plate at the other end, substantially as described.

8. The pattern for the under-arm or side form for a waist comprising among its members two integral plates each having adjacent to its outer edge an under-arm-measure scale, said scales corresponding to each other, said plates beingad j ustably united at top and bottom and provided at the top with an arm-scye scale and near the bottom with awaist-measure scale,whereby a line connecting the same measure indications, on the two under-armmeasure scales will indicate the waist-line,

substantially as described.

9. A sleeve-pattern consisting of a single in-' tegral plate having a median elbow-line, an

inwardly-curved longitudinal edge having a scale adjacent to each end, an outwardlycurved longitudinal edge having a scale adjacent to its upper end, a slot on said elbowline through which a mark can be made, an elbow-measure scale adjacent to said slot, the line of slots m near the outwardly-curved edge, an elbow slot for said line of slots through which a mark can be made, provided with an elbow-measure scale on the reverse side of the plate, a straight lower edge provided with awrist-measure scale, and inclined slots m extending from the upper end of said line of slots toward the upper end of said inwardly-curved edge, substantially as described.

10. The pattern -rule for skirts provided with a straight edge terminating at one end in a curved portion, a short perpendicular edge at the other end, provided with a scale for the fullness overhip, a short longitudinal edge extending from said perpendicular edge parallel to the first-mentioned edge, and an inwardly-curved edgeextendin g from the end of said short longitudinal edge to the end of the said curved portion where it forms a point, said point forming a center or axis in using said curved edge, and said curved edge being adapted for drawing in the waist curves of skirts and the curves of collars, substantially as described.

11. The pattern-rule for skirts and parts of garments comprising a plate having a straight longitudinal edge, a perpendicular edge pro- Vided With a scale for the fullness over hip, the curved edge for giving the Waist-line of skirts and edge line of collars, a line ofslots parallel to said curved edge and collar-measure scales adjacent to said curved edge, and line of slots, substantially as described.

12. The pattern-rule for skirts and parts of garments comprising a main plate having a straight longitudinal edge, a perpendicular edge bearing a scale to indicate fullness over hips, the curved edge for giving Waist-line of skirts, the line of slots parallel to said curved edge, end slots extending from said line of slots toward said curved edge, col1ar-measure scales adjacent to said curved edge and line of slots, said plate having a dart-opening formed therein and a sliding dart-plate having dart-forming edges, adjustably secured to the main plate, and a scale on said main plate for indicating the position of said dartplate, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affiX my signature in presence of tWo Witnesses.

ALBERTHA H. ORMSBY. 

